Ever since I started my obsession with train adventures, I’ve been trying to work out how I could enjoy canoeing by train. I used to do a lot of paddling, mostly in a kayak.
And often accidentally out of it.
One particularly happy canoeing memory is canoe camping with a group of Scouts on the River Dart. We set off from Stoke Gabriel (popular for crabbing), camped on the banks at Sharpham House (mindfulness and rewilding) and paddled up to Totnes the next day.
Just wonderful.
Inflatable kayaks or traditional canoes?
Until the inflatable revolution, canoeing and kayaking involved having plenty of home storage and a car to carry all your gear.
Not everyone has these.
Nowadays inflatable kayaks and paddleboards have made time on the water more accessible to more people but to my mind, they aren’t a replacement for traditional kayaks and canoes when it comes to enjoyment.
And perhaps safety.
You could perhaps, take an inflatable kayak on a train (I intend to try soon with my new Packraft) but bigger trips require bigger boats, and when it comes to traditional canoes and kayaks there’s one key problem.
Most trains don’t have canoe storage.
Why choose outdoor activities by train?
So why go by train?
Why don’t I enjoy my outdoor activities by car like everyone else?
Well there are many reasons but here are a few.
- Not everyone has a car and the outdoors should be accessible for all
- Too many vehicles in countryside lanes cause problems for everybody
- Travelling by train is far better for the environment than travelling by car
- I love train rides, mainly for the countryside views
In truth I do still use my campervan Greta to get around and sleep in but if I can take the train instead, I do.
And if I can encourage other people to do the same along the way, all the better.
Check out more of my outdoor adventures by train.
A canoe tour on the River Dart – by train
- Station: Totnes
- Travel time from London: 2 hrs 45 mins
- Travel time from Bristol: 1 hr 35 mins
- Canoe tour provider: Dewerstone Adventures
Author’s adventure tip: Trust yourself to your canoe guide. I had a great time with Aiden. He helped me remember my old paddling skills, taught me a few new ones and, most importantly, made sure we enjoyed ourselves and felt safe at all times.
Practicalities: Put suncream on before you go and wear a hat if it’s bright. Take a bottle of water and a few small snacks. Canoeing might look like gliding but it does use a fair amount of energy. Go to the loo before you set off.
Canoeing by train – the River Dart
Even if you have worked out how to take your canoe on a train (not entirely impossible); unless you’re an experienced paddler, you’re going to need an experienced river guide to help you complete this train adventure.
Allow me to introduce…
Dewerstone Adventures
Thoughtfully formed.
If you live in Devon, love Dartmoor or have visited an outdoor show in the last few years, you’ll probably have come across Dewerstone, a climate neutral, Certified B-Corp outdoor brand who recognised that, as well as taking a lot of enjoyment from the environment, we can all make choices that give back to it.
This, by the way, is my favourite of their Fair Wear Foundation t-shirts in case you’re thinking of buying me a present.
Because the team all love the outdoors so much, Dewerstone have set up Dewerstone Adventures whose motto is ‘Equip. Explore. Protect.’
Themes to which I can really respond.
Which is why I chose Dewerstone Adventures for my first canoe trip by train.
Here’s how it went.
My Devon canoe trip (by train)
I will admit to being a bit nervous before this canoe tour. I have a fair amount of kayaking experience (even some on white water) but I haven’t paddled regularly for years.
And I’ve always been good at falling out of my boat.
I didn’t need to worry though. Aiden was an accomplished guide. It was easy right from the start to see he was used to supporting guests of all confidence and experience levels.
All equipment provided
Paddles, dry bags, buoyancy aids, there’s no doubt about it, kayaking and canoeing require a fair amount of equipment.
And that’s without mentioning the boat.
When you’re on holiday or travelling by public transport, it’s tricky to carry all of that on the bus or train.
Even if your river is right next to the station.
River swimming from Totnes station.
Which is why I was so pleased to hear that Dewerstone Adventures would provide all the kit I needed. All I had in my small rucksack when I hopped on the train was a bag of snacks, a bottle of water, a towel and a change of clothes.
Just in case!
Arriving at Totnes by train
It’s a pleasant walk from Totnes train station to Steamer Quay on the other side of the River Dart. Especially if you take the footpath next to the river.
But if you have time, it’s also worth exploring Totnes town before or after your paddle. Packed full of quirky and original local shops, Totnes has something for everyone.
Especially if you like eating.
Leaving dry land
Our tour started at Steamer Quay, which is a public quay so I had fun watching other people launch as well as helping Aiden unload the canoes from the van.
He definitely did more lifting than me.
Aiden kitted my fellow paddler Sue and I out with personal flotation devices (buoyancy aids), offered us space for snacks etc in his dry bag, and gave us a few pointers before we set off.
Getting in can be the wobbliest part of a paddle.
It was low tide so Aiden helped us both negotiate the slippery ramp and then get into the canoe. I had forgotten how stable big canoes are. I stepped in easily and didn’t feel too nervy as we set off.
Go with the flow.
We were soon paddling downstream and immediately left the buildings and boats of Totnes behind us. With the tide really low, we were treated to a beautifully alien landscape of tree roots, mud flats and whispering reeds.
A landscape you just don’t have access to on land.
We made a short journey down river because the wind was going to be against us on the return trip. We were treated almost as soon as we set off to a visit from a Little Egret.
And then the wildlife just kept on coming.
Deer, herons, cormorants, a seal and even a flash of blue from a Kingfisher, it felt like nature had come out to say ‘hello’. This isn’t an uncommon feature of river paddling. Without an engine, you become part of the environment.
It’s a wonderful experience.
Learning paddling skills
On our return trip the paddling was harder work but I had got back into my stroke a bit by then and felt I could dig in more.
Plus Aiden’s instructions had reminded me how to steer a canoe.
Aiden found places for us to rest when we were tired and had a few tricks up his sleeve to ease our progress up the river. The tide had turned to help us by now and he taught us how to follow the bubbles where the tidal flow was strongest.
By the time we got back to the quay, I had even remembered how to do a J-stroke.
I was quite chuffed when Aiden noticed!
Take a canoe tour on the River Dart
Whether you’re local, on holiday in Devon or looking for a day out from London (other cities are available), I can thoroughly recommend a canoe tour with Dewerstone Adventures.
Or why not make it a weekend? Totnes is fantastic.
Totnes train station is on the mainline between London and Cornwall, most trains stop there and my tour was timed perfectly to fit in with train timetables.
Go on! You know you want to!!
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