Adventures by train – river swim in Cornwall

I hope you won’t be disappointed.

This article doesn’t give specific directions to a secret river swimming location in Cornwall.

I’m not sure there are any of those left.

But it is a post about my recent train adventure; a beautiful station to station walk, that included a gorgeous cooling river swim in Cornwall’s River Fowey.

No, I’m not going to tell you exactly where I swam.

It’s far more fun exploring for yourself and this walk has so much more to offer than a dip in the river.

How to plan a walking route with the OS Maps app.

Flowing water, gentle rapids, giant trees, long flat sections, peace and quiet (even in August).

This train walk has it all.

Even if you don’t like swimming.

River swimming access and safety

Swimming in the River Dart by train.

River access laws in England

Rivers swims in England and Wales can be difficult to locate not because we don’t have many rivers but because our legal and permitted access to rivers is limited. It’s a complicated and contended issue but the Outdoor Swimming Society has a really helpful explanation of our riparian rights (rights to access a watercourse and use water).

River swimming responsibly

When you’re enjoying yourself outside, taking a leave no trace approach is always best. Make sure you take all your rubbish home (including loo paper and food rubbish). When you enter and exit a river please be mindful not to damage the river bank, and when you move from river to river, make sure you rinse all of your equipment in between.

River swimming safety

No swim is without risk and this is particularly true for open water swimming but it is possible to swim safely in rivers. I would always advise swimming with someone else, finding a shallow spot to start with and taking local advice.

Walk the area you want to swim first, looking out for obstructions in the water, and take time to look at the flow of the river. Swim upstream against the flow (if the water flow is too strong for you to do that, find a more gentle swim spot).

I like to wallow in a pool.

This excellent article on outdoor swimming safety has a great section on river swimming.

Note: Tidal sections of rivers can be subject to very fast flow and are best swam with local experts and support.

Taking the train to Cornwall

Trains run from London and (other services are available) into Cornwall every day. GWR’s London to Penzance service from London Paddington is much-loved.

It’s also one of the UK’s most scenic train routes.

Not just beaches

Sea swimming in Devon by train.

When you think of Cornwall, your mind almost certainly conjures up holidays near white sand Cornish beaches and hidden coves.

But Cornwall is so much more than that.

Away from those sparkling turquoise edges is a green land that is just as fascinating and beautiful as the Cornish coastline.

And nowhere near as crowded.

Bodmin Parkway station

Whilst some small Cornish railway stations are not much more than a slab of raised concrete, Bodmin Parkway train station is one of those locations that has it all.

• A cafe for pre-walk sustenance
• A loo for post-cafe relief
• A car park, which you won’t need on your train adventure
• Flowers (I love station flowers)
• A steam train connection

From here the Bodmin Railway (Bodmin and Wenford on the OS Map) can take you on a steam train ride to Boscarne Junction station via Bodmin General (it also connects with the Camel Trail cycle route).

My walk below starts at Bodmin Parkway station and ends at Lostwithiel but you could walk Lostwithiel to Bodmin Parkway and enjoy a steam train ride once you’ve finished.

Walking route Bodmin Parkway station to Lostwithiel station

Walking route gpx file and map on OS Maps.

Note: This walk takes you directly down river to Lostwithiel but you could also add in a walk up to the National Trust’s beautiful Lanhydrock house.

• Start station – Bodmin Parkway
• Finish station – Lostwithiel
• Distance – 8 km
• Elevation – 79 m
• Time – 2.5 hours
• Refreshments – cafe at Bodmin Parkway station. Lostwithiel has plenty of choice with a pub, fish and chips, and ice cream
• Toilets – Bodmin Parkway station, near Lostwithiel church, there are no toilets at Lostwithiel station

Walking route GPX – Bodmin Parkway station to Lostwithiel station

Note: The first section of this route uses permissive footpaths (orange dashes on an Ordnance Survey map). These are permitted by the land owner but can occasionally be temporarily closed.

Leave Bodmin Parkway station.

Leave the station on the same side as the cafe and head down the lane that runs alongside the car park (following signs for Lanhydrock).

Pass below the railway line.

The lane will take you through a railway underpass then onto a wide tree-lined driveway above the river.

Spot the River Fowey below you.

Cross the stone bridge when you come to it and follow the wide path keeping the river on your left. There are options to divert from the main path here.

Who knows what fun you might find!

Before Respryn bridge, you’ll see a car park on your right. Continue to the road then cross the bridge.

Glad you didn’t drive the narrow lanes?

Just over Respryn bridge, turn right to continue down river. Here you’ll find a short path down to the river. This is labelled ‘Dog Bathing Area’ but I found evidence of people bathing too.

Keep the river on your right.

Follow the main track here (the smaller one nearer to the river was closed when I was there) until you come to and cross a footbridge.

Watch out for trolls.

Continue, with the water on your left now, until the path divides. Take the right fork that heads away from the river.

You’ll meet the River Fowey again soon.

Continue through the woods until you come to a reddish gate. Go through this and another gate to the left labelled ‘Footpath to Restormel Castle’.

It’s time for a gentle hill.

Head up the stony path then through another gate into a field planted with reeds.

And now for something slightly less beautiful.

As you join the lane and start to walk along it, you’ll pass the Restormel waterworks. You might be surprised by how big they are. They treat and supply much of Cornwall’s drinking water.

A green and quiet lane.

Pass the treatment works to continue along the lane. At one point the lane forks. The footpath continues straight on despite the ‘Access to farm only’ signs (those are for vehicles). The ‘Public Footpath’ sign on the gate should reassure you.

Pass Restormel Manor.

When you reach the beautiful buildings around Restormel Manor, you’ll have the opportunity to divert and walk up the hill to Restormel Castle (English Heritage). Otherwise continue along the lane following the sign for the Duchy of Cornwall Nursery.

Not all waterfalls are giants.

When you get to Lostwithiel Bowling Club (an interesting sight in the middle of the Cornish countryside), go through the small gate on the other side of the road to enjoy a break next to a miniature waterfall.

Back to the river.

As you come into Lostwithiel, divert from the lane through a gate on the left. Follow the gravel path down to rejoin the river. Pass under the A390 road bridge before coming to Lostwithiel’s ancient stone bridge.

Fun under the bridge

On a low water day, you can walk right underneath Lostwithiel bridge but the most sensible people (the younger ones) will probably be playing in the water here.

Plenty of opportunity for swooshing.

Once you’ve explored Lostwithiel (it’s definitely worth taking the time to do so), cross the old bridge to find Lostwithiel station.

It’s time to bid the River Fowey farewell.

Author’s walk and swim

On a hot day in August I knew I wanted to be away from Devon and Cornwall’s crowded coastal beaches so I opted for a train ride into the Cornish countryside.

There are two things I love on a hot day, water and trees, and this walk had plenty of both. Most of the day I was walking in the shade and had the sound of the river to accompany me.

And yes, I did have a lovely river swim.

I found a river beach by a bend in the river that, on the inside of the bend, offered a pool just deep enough for me to float in and on the outside a bit of flow to allow me to stretch my swimming muscles.

I had several dips.

And it was so warm I ate lunch in my swimsuit watching the dogs play in the river.

Much nicer than being in the holiday crowds.

I was initially sorry to leave the riverside for the lane section of the walk but found the lane just as interesting and saw even less people than I had down by the river.

Which is perhaps why it was a bit of a shock to cross under the bridge at Lostwithiel and find the river beach packed with parents and the river itself packed with children. It was lovely to see them enjoying themselves in the water but I felt a bit too self conscious to join in.

Good wholesome fun.

I sat and watched the kids swooshing under the bridge before I went to catch my train home.

Plenty more to explore.

I’m looking forward to exploring this area of Cornwall further by train. Perhaps a walk on up to Lanhydrock or further down river towards Fowey itself. And I would like to go to Restormel Castle and see what the views are like from there.

Kernow, tereba nessa (Cornwall till next time).

Check out more of my adventures by train and station to station walks.