This is a train adventure from Starcross train station.
Copyright Ordnance Survey 2025
Starcross station is on the London to Cornwall main line but it’s so small, not all trains stop there. Perched high above the Exe Estuary, the station only has two platforms. But as well as its stunning estuary views, and its location on the South West Coastal Path, this tiny station has another big advantage.
It’s within walking distance of Powderham Castle.
Where is Powderham Castle?
Looking at the map of Devon, you might imagine Powderham Castle was built to defend the River Exe estuary but it lacks some of the features of traditional castles such as a moat and keep.
Happily situated on Devon’s south coast just down river from Exeter, the walks around Powderham Castle offer amazing views but be warned, Powderham’s name relates to its reclaimed marsh land. Be prepared for at least some mud, especially in the winter.
At one point on this walk you’ll almost be below sea level.
What are the Powderham Castle opening times?
Powderham Castle Entrance, Fi Darby
Apart from their Christmas at the Castle event, Powderham Castle closes over the winter, opening again in spring. During the warmer months, the castle and estate are closed on Saturdays but open between 10:00 – 16:00 Sunday to Friday.
It’s worth checking the website before you visit because events at Powderham can lead to closures and to the estate being busy.
During the summer months, Powderham offers some lovely walks through the estate woods and garden but you will need a ticket or membership (good value if you live locally) to access these.
If you do want to visit for a winter walk, there are a few public footpaths across the estate as well as a permissive walking and cycling route giving access to Powderham Farm Shop & Bistro.
Powderham Castle dog walks
Want your dog to be king of the castle?
Powderham Castle is one of Devon’s most dog-friendly destinations. Understandably on this working estate, dogs are requested to be on leads but unusually they are allowed inside the castle.
You won’t need to pay an entrance fee to complete this walk because it uses public and permissive footpaths. In the summertime you can either buy tickets or pay for membership to visit other areas of the Powderham grounds as well as the castle itself.
Leave the station and turn right. Follow the walkway past a grass area and car park to cross a small road. Turn right again along the lane and on the left between the two buildings walk through the estate gate to access the permissive path.
This is a shared path. Watch out for bikes.
If the permissive path is closed, head back to the A379 seafront road and follow it along until you come to the castle’s main gate.
Follow the path along until you come to Powderham Farm Shop and Bistro. On the way keep an eye out for deer in the park and distant views of Powderham Castle on your right.
Visit again in the summer for better castle views.
After the Farm Shop, turn left away from the castle to meet the road through a white gate. Turn right then right again into Slittercombe Lane. Follow past the houses and round the corner. You’ll find a public footpath on the right.
Don’t take this first one, it’s super muddy in the winter.
Flooded ground Powderham, Fi Darby
Just 100 metres further on and downhill, take the second public footpath onto the Powderham estate. Follow it to cross the footbridge over the River Kenn. If you were on the ground here, you would be at sea level.
Which explains all the water.
Follow the footpath to cross over two Powderham lanes. Take note of the ticket-holder only signs. After the second lane, head uphill alongside the deer fence.
Stop to admire the view even if you aren’t out of breath.
As you reach the top of the hill, you’ll be able to spot the top of the Powderham Belvedere on your left. In the summer, ticket-holding visitors can walk up to the tower. You can even get married there.
But the Belvedere’s ballroom is long gone.
St Clement’s Church Powderham, Fi Darby
Follow the path down the other side of the hill towards the estuary. Head through the gate and across the green towards the cottages that make up the hamlet of Powderham. Walk down the lane between them to find St Clement’s church.
Here you have a choice.
Turn left over the footbridge to walk upstream past two pubs to Marsh Barton station (2.5 hours).
Return the way you came to buy goodies from Powderham Farm Shop for your train journey home.
Turn right to follow the lane between the train line and the Powderham estate.
I’ve used option three for this hiking route. It’s a long lane but there’s plenty to look at and the trains rushing by add an element of excitement.
Especially if you love trains as much as I do.
All you need to do now is follow the lane back to Starcross station and continue your journey from there.
Mysa (I hope) is the Swedish equivalent of the cosy concept of hygge.
In July 2024 I travelled back from Sweden to the UK by train after a wonderful holiday in Stockholm. I love all things Scandinavia and sometimes visit IKEA here in the UK to get my Scandi fix (apologies to any actual Scandinavians here, I know IKEA isn’t Sweden). And not your usual travel writer destination.
But I did recently demonstrate that you can get to IKEA by train.
I started off my writing career as an outdoor writer but over the last couple of years, I’ve realised something important.
Outdoor and travel writing are inextricably linked.
As we approach 2025, I believe these two are set to become even more intertwined as adventure travel and car-free holidays gain popularity with a wider range of people.
Have you noticed any hints of autumn yet? I have but they’re so slight, I’m choosing to ignore them and make the most of the last few weeks of summer 2024.
Windsor Castle is one of the most iconic of the UK’s Royal residences and has been home to our Royal Family for over 900 years.
But my favourite thing about Windsor Castle isn’t its grandeur (it has plenty), its famous occupants (always intriguing) or its beautiful stonework (hard not to be impressed).
It’s that Windsor Castle is just across the road from not one but two train stations.
Although the route to the castle from GWR’s Windsor and Eton Central has less uphill.
I travelled with my favourite train line GWR from Devon changing at Reading and then Slough. I especially loved the single platform journey into Windsor and Eton Central, which crossed the River Thames via Brunel’s Windsor Railway Bridge.
Brunel Railway Bridge Windsor, Fi Darby
Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s constructions pop up everywhere once you start travelling by train.
Windsor Central station or Windsor Riverside station?
Windsor and Eton Riverside station, Fi Darby
Getting to Windsor by train was easy and I found enough to explore to make me add the trip to my adventures by train pages.
Which station you choose for your trip to Windsor will depend on a few factors.
From London you can opt for London Waterloo (direct to Windsor and Eton Riverside) or Paddington (change at Slough for Windsor and Eton Central).
If you don’t mind changing trains at Slough (it’s very easy) the journey with GWR into Windsor and Eton Central offers tantalising glimpses of Windsor Castle.
So far Windsor and Eton Central is top of my ‘most chilled railway station’ list. The shops and eateries set under the impressive cover of the Victorian station space, make Royal Windsor Station (its previous name) a destination in its own right.
Windsor Royal Station Entrance, Fi Darby
Although the two Windsor stations make a really easy station to station walk (they’re less than a kilometre apart) they don’t have a direct train line between them.
Windsor Castle is the world’s largest inhabited castle.
Famous former Windsor Castle residents include Henry VIII (also quite large), Elizabeth I and Queen Elizabeth II. You can still see the Royal Standard flying over Windsor Castle today if the King is in residence.
Selfie King Charles III, Fi Darby
If he isn’t you’ll see the Union Flag instead.
Windsor Castle’s Royal residences, including Adelaide Cottage where Prince William and his family live and Frogmore Cottage once home to Harry and Meghan, are quite rightly kept from public view.
Everyone needs a bit of time out.
But the State Apartments and some other areas at Windsor Castle are open to the public as part of the Royal Collection Trust.
Is it worth visiting Windsor?
Windsor Castle, Fi Darby
Even if you aren’t a fan of the Royal Family, Windsor is a really interesting town to visit. The castle itself sits like a centrepiece to the town.
And curiosity will almost certainly pull you in.
Whether you choose to visit Windsor Castle or not, Windsor has plenty to offer its visitors.
Where to go in Windsor if you’re not visiting Windsor Castle
Windsor Castle Entrance, Fi Darby
Windsor Castle is absolutely worth a visit, not least because if you choose to pay for entry to the castle, you’ll get a close-up view of iconic places you’ve seen during televised Royal events and historic items you’ve only previously seen in pictures.
My favourites included Henry VIII’s armour and the restored St George’s Hall.
But if you decide not to purchase a ticket to Windsor Castle, Windsor and its cross-river neighbour Eton, have plenty to offer in their own rights.
Windsor duck boat tour, Fi Darby
Here are my five top suggestions of things to do in Windsor if you’re not visiting Windsor Castle.
Note: Windsor Castle is not open every day.
1. Walk to Eton College
Eton College, Fi Darby
Eton College is a short walk from Windsor Castle across the River Thames. Don’t forget to look in the windows of the uniform shops on the way and perhaps enjoy lunch at Côte Windsor or The Boatman pub (both on the riverside).
2. Visit Windsor’s Crooked House
Crooked House Windsor, Fi Darby
Despite its wonky appearance, Windsor’s Crooked House is nowhere near as old as Windsor Castle but it is one of Windsor’s most photographed (and Instagramable) buildings. Claiming to be the UK’s oldest tea shop, it looks like it belongs in Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley and is currently The Shambles cafe bar and bottle shop.
3. Walk a section of the Thames Path
Thames Path Windsor, Fi Darby
The Thames Path is 185 miles long and runs all the way from the great river’s source in the Cotswolds to Woolwich a few miles from the sea. 185 miles is a long way but this route can be walked in sections.
The Thames Path has many options for station to station walks.
Copyright Ordnance Survey 2024
About an hour downstream will take you through Windsor Home Park (open to the public) then across the river to Datchet station. If you continue for another hour along the Thames Path from Datchet, you’ll come to the Runnymede Boathouse from where you’ll be able to join a boat trip back to Windsor (check the French Brothers website for times and booking).
The boat trip back will give you amazing views of Windsor’s parks as well as the castle.
You’ll need to be inside Windsor Castle to see the Windsor Guard changing ceremony but before and after this, the New Guard and Old Guard march along High Street. One of the best places to watch this march is from the raised Guildhall area opposite the Castle Hotel. The Guard doesn’t march every day and not always to music. Times and dates are available on the Changing Guard website.
Note: Occasionally and without warning, the Guard doesn’t march past the Guildhall. Unfortunately this happened on my visit so I don’t have any splendid photos of the event.
5. Walk Windsor’s famous Long Walk
Windsor Castle Long Walk, Fi Darby
Windsor’s Long Walk is beautiful straight tree lined path. It joins Snow Hill in Windsor Great Park with Windsor Castle and gives amazing castle views. You’ll recognise it from various Royal occasions including the funeral of Queen Elizabeth II. The Long Walk is free for the public to use but as part of Windsor Great Park, it may be closed on some occasions.
Author’s visit to Windsor
Windsor Long Walk, Fi Darby
Visiting as I did in the middle of August, I had expected Windsor to feel overcrowded but it really didn’t. It was definitely a tourist town but these were polite and respectful tourists.
There were plenty of people around during the day but in the evening it was much quieter and the only times we had to queue were for understandable security checks at the the entrance to Windsor Castle and to walk past the Royal Vault in the King George VI Memorial Chapel (at St George’s Chapel).
A memorable experience.
I stayed with a friend for one night and was very pleased to find our apartment a short and very relaxed walk away from the train station through the Royal Windsor Station shopping area. My favourite thing was the almost instant view of Windsor Castle.
I could even glimpse it from my bed.
Windsor Castle is very much at the centre of Windsor and exploring that as well as enjoying a wonderful boat trip on the Thames (I recommend heading downstream past the Royal Parks) didn’t leave much time for walking. Although we did wander across the river to take a peek at the buildings of Eton College (fascinating).
I plan to go back and explore further afield on foot.
I’m not generally a fan of the South East and I didn’t think I would want to visit Windsor more than once but I do. It has a unique rarefied atmosphere.
And is super easy to visit by train.
Train arriving Windsor, Fi Darby
There were plenty of highlights on my trip but I’ve listed my five top things to do in Windsor below.
Windsor Castle from High Street, Fi Darby
Pay the ticket price and visit Windsor Castle
Take a boat ride on the River Thames
Stroll along the Long Walk
Dine out in a cobbled street
Cross the Thames to discover Eton College
And definitely arrive by train. The car parks and coach areas were super full.
Ever since I started my obsession with train adventures, I’ve been trying to work out how I could enjoy canoeing by train. I used to do a lot of paddling, mostly in a kayak.
And often accidentally out of it.
One particularly happy canoeing memory is canoe camping with a group of Scouts on the River Dart. We set off from Stoke Gabriel (popular for crabbing), camped on the banks at Sharpham House (mindfulness and rewilding) and paddled up to Totnes the next day.
Just wonderful.
Inflatable kayaks or traditional canoes?
Canoe River Dart, Fi Darby
Until the inflatable revolution, canoeing and kayaking involved having plenty of home storage and a car to carry all your gear.
Not everyone has these.
Nowadays inflatable kayaks and paddleboards have made time on the water more accessible to more people but to my mind, they aren’t a replacement for traditional kayaks and canoes when it comes to enjoyment.
And perhaps safety.
You could perhaps, take an inflatable kayak on a train (I intend to try soon with my new Packraft) but bigger trips require bigger boats, and when it comes to traditional canoes and kayaks there’s one key problem.
Most trains don’t have canoe storage.
Why choose outdoor activities by train?
Totnes Station, Fi Darby
So why go by train?
Why don’t I enjoy my outdoor activities by car like everyone else?
Well there are many reasons but here are a few.
Not everyone has a car and the outdoors should be accessible for all
Too many vehicles in countryside lanes cause problems for everybody
Travelling by train is far better for the environment than travelling by car
I love train rides, mainly for the countryside views
In truth I do still use my campervan Greta to get around and sleep in but if I can take the train instead, I do.
And if I can encourage other people to do the same along the way, all the better.
Author’s adventure tip: Trust yourself to your canoe guide. I had a great time with Aiden. He helped me remember my old paddling skills, taught me a few new ones and, most importantly, made sure we enjoyed ourselves and felt safe at all times.
Practicalities: Put suncream on before you go and wear a hat if it’s bright. Take a bottle of water and a few small snacks. Canoeing might look like gliding but it does use a fair amount of energy. Go to the loo before you set off.
Canoeing by train – the River Dart
Even if you have worked out how to take your canoe on a train (not entirely impossible); unless you’re an experienced paddler, you’re going to need an experienced river guide to help you complete this train adventure.
Allow me to introduce…
Dewerstone Adventures
Aiden from Dewerstone Adventures, Fi Darby
Thoughtfully formed.
If you live in Devon, love Dartmoor or have visited an outdoor show in the last few years, you’ll probably have come across Dewerstone, a climate neutral, Certified B-Corp outdoor brand who recognised that, as well as taking a lot of enjoyment from the environment, we can all make choices that give back to it.
This, by the way, is my favourite of their Fair Wear Foundation t-shirts in case you’re thinking of buying me a present.
Because the team all love the outdoors so much, Dewerstone have set up Dewerstone Adventures whose motto is ‘Equip. Explore. Protect.’
Themes to which I can really respond.
Which is why I chose Dewerstone Adventures for my first canoe trip by train.
Here’s how it went.
My Devon canoe trip (by train)
I will admit to being a bit nervous before this canoe tour. I have a fair amount of kayaking experience (even some on white water) but I haven’t paddled regularly for years.
And I’ve always been good at falling out of my boat.
I didn’t need to worry though. Aiden was an accomplished guide. It was easy right from the start to see he was used to supporting guests of all confidence and experience levels.
All equipment provided
Paddles, dry bags, buoyancy aids, there’s no doubt about it, kayaking and canoeing require a fair amount of equipment.
And that’s without mentioning the boat.
When you’re on holiday or travelling by public transport, it’s tricky to carry all of that on the bus or train.
Which is why I was so pleased to hear that Dewerstone Adventures would provide all the kit I needed. All I had in my small rucksack when I hopped on the train was a bag of snacks, a bottle of water, a towel and a change of clothes.
Just in case!
Arriving at Totnes by train
Access for All path, Fi Darby
It’s a pleasant walk from Totnes train station to Steamer Quay on the other side of the River Dart. Especially if you take the footpath next to the river.
Copyright Ordnance Survey 2024
But if you have time, it’s also worth exploring Totnes town before or after your paddle. Packed full of quirky and original local shops, Totnes has something for everyone.
Especially if you like eating.
Leaving dry land
Our tour started at Steamer Quay, which is a public quay so I had fun watching other people launch as well as helping Aiden unload the canoes from the van.
He definitely did more lifting than me.
Aiden kitted my fellow paddler Sue and I out with personal flotation devices (buoyancy aids), offered us space for snacks etc in his dry bag, and gave us a few pointers before we set off.
Getting in can be the wobbliest part of a paddle.
It was low tide so Aiden helped us both negotiate the slippery ramp and then get into the canoe. I had forgotten how stable big canoes are. I stepped in easily and didn’t feel too nervy as we set off.
Go with the flow.
We were soon paddling downstream and immediately left the buildings and boats of Totnes behind us. With the tide really low, we were treated to a beautifully alien landscape of tree roots, mud flats and whispering reeds.
A landscape you just don’t have access to on land.
We made a short journey down river because the wind was going to be against us on the return trip. We were treated almost as soon as we set off to a visit from a Little Egret.
And then the wildlife just kept on coming.
Deer, herons, cormorants, a seal and even a flash of blue from a Kingfisher, it felt like nature had come out to say ‘hello’. This isn’t an uncommon feature of river paddling. Without an engine, you become part of the environment.
It’s a wonderful experience.
Learning paddling skills
Satisfied smile, Fi Darby
On our return trip the paddling was harder work but I had got back into my stroke a bit by then and felt I could dig in more.
Plus Aiden’s instructions had reminded me how to steer a canoe.
Aiden found places for us to rest when we were tired and had a few tricks up his sleeve to ease our progress up the river. The tide had turned to help us by now and he taught us how to follow the bubbles where the tidal flow was strongest.
By the time we got back to the quay, I had even remembered how to do a J-stroke.
I was quite chuffed when Aiden noticed!
Take a canoe tour on the River Dart
Whether you’re local, on holiday in Devon or looking for a day out from London (other cities are available), I can thoroughly recommend a canoe tour with Dewerstone Adventures.
Or why not make it a weekend? Totnes is fantastic.
Totnes train station is on the mainline between London and Cornwall, most trains stop there and my tour was timed perfectly to fit in with train timetables.
This article doesn’t give specific directions to a secret river swimming location in Cornwall.
I’m not sure there are any of those left.
Stepping stones River Fowey, Fi Darby
But it is a post about my recent train adventure; a beautiful station to station walk, that included a gorgeous cooling river swim in Cornwall’s River Fowey.
No, I’m not going to tell you exactly where I swam.
It’s far more fun exploring for yourself and this walk has so much more to offer than a dip in the river.
Rivers swims in England and Wales can be difficult to locate not because we don’t have many rivers but because our legal and permitted access to rivers is limited. It’s a complicated and contended issue but the Outdoor Swimming Society has a really helpful explanation of our riparian rights (rights to access a watercourse and use water).
River swimming responsibly
When you’re enjoying yourself outside, taking a leave no trace approach is always best. Make sure you take all your rubbish home (including loo paper and food rubbish). When you enter and exit a river please be mindful not to damage the river bank, and when you move from river to river, make sure you rinse all of your equipment in between.
River swimming safety
No swim is without risk and this is particularly true for open water swimming but it is possible to swim safely in rivers. I would always advise swimming with someone else, finding a shallow spot to start with and taking local advice.
Walk the area you want to swim first, looking out for obstructions in the water, and take time to look at the flow of the river. Swim upstream against the flow (if the water flow is too strong for you to do that, find a more gentle swim spot).
Note: Tidal sections of rivers can be subject to very fast flow and are best swam with local experts and support.
Taking the train to Cornwall
Trains run from London and (other services are available) into Cornwall every day. GWR’s London to Penzance service from London Paddington is much-loved.
When you think of Cornwall, your mind almost certainly conjures up holidays near white sand Cornish beaches and hidden coves.
But Cornwall is so much more than that.
Away from those sparkling turquoise edges is a green land that is just as fascinating and beautiful as the Cornish coastline.
And nowhere near as crowded.
Bodmin Parkway station
Cafe Bodmin Parkway Station, Fi Darby
Whilst some small Cornish railway stations are not much more than a slab of raised concrete, Bodmin Parkway train station is one of those locations that has it all.
A cafe for pre-walk sustenance
A loo for post-cafe relief
A car park, which you won’t need on your train adventure
Flowers (I love station flowers)
A steam train connection
From here the Bodmin Railway (Bodmin and Wenford on the OS Map) can take you on a steam train ride to Boscarne Junction station via Bodmin General (it also connects with the Camel Trail cycle route).
My walk below starts at Bodmin Parkway station and ends at Lostwithiel but you could walk Lostwithiel to Bodmin Parkway and enjoy a steam train ride once you’ve finished.
Walking route Bodmin Parkway station to Lostwithiel station
Refreshments – cafe at Bodmin Parkway station. Lostwithiel has plenty of choice with a pub, fish and chips, and ice cream
Toilets – Bodmin Parkway station, near Lostwithiel church, there are no toilets at Lostwithiel station
Walking route GPX – Bodmin Parkway station to Lostwithiel station
Note: The first section of this route uses permissive footpaths (orange dashes on an Ordnance Survey map). These are permitted by the land owner but can occasionally be temporarily closed.
Leave the station on the same side as the cafe and head down the lane that runs alongside the car park (following signs for Lanhydrock).
Pass below the railway line.
Underpass Bodmin Parkway, Fi Darby
The lane will take you through a railway underpass then onto a wide tree-lined driveway above the river.
Spot the River Fowey below you.
Footpath Bodmin Parkway, Fi Darby
Cross the stone bridge when you come to it and follow the wide path keeping the river on your left. There are options to divert from the main path here.
Who knows what fun you might find!
National Trust Car Park, Respryn Bridge, Fi Darby
Before Respryn bridge, you’ll see a car park on your right. Continue to the road then cross the bridge.
Glad you didn’t drive the narrow lanes?
Below Respryn Bridge, Fi Darby
Just over Respryn bridge, turn right to continue down river. Here you’ll find a short path down to the river. This is labelled ‘Dog Bathing Area’ but I found evidence of people bathing too.
Keep the river on your right.
Follow the main track here (the smaller one nearer to the river was closed when I was there) until you come to and cross a footbridge.
Watch out for trolls.
Continue, with the water on your left now, until the path divides. Take the right fork that heads away from the river.
You’ll meet the River Fowey again soon.
Gate towards Restormel Castle, Fi Darby
Continue through the woods until you come to a reddish gate. Go through this and another gate to the left labelled ‘Footpath to Restormel Castle’.
It’s time for a gentle hill.
Footpath through reeds, Fi Darby
Head up the stony path then through another gate into a field planted with reeds.
And now for something slightly less beautiful.
As you join the lane and start to walk along it, you’ll pass the Restormel waterworks. You might be surprised by how big they are. They treat and supply much of Cornwall’s drinking water.
A green and quiet lane.
Pass the treatment works to continue along the lane. At one point the lane forks. The footpath continues straight on despite the ‘Access to farm only’ signs (those are for vehicles). The ‘Public Footpath’ sign on the gate should reassure you.
Pass Restormel Manor.
Buildings Restormel Manor, Fi Darby
When you reach the beautiful buildings around Restormel Manor, you’ll have the opportunity to divert and walk up the hill to Restormel Castle (English Heritage). Otherwise continue along the lane following the sign for the Duchy of Cornwall Nursery.
Not all waterfalls are giants.
When you get to Lostwithiel Bowling Club (an interesting sight in the middle of the Cornish countryside), go through the small gate on the other side of the road to enjoy a break next to a miniature waterfall.
Back to the river.
Lostwithiel New Bridge, Fi Darby
As you come into Lostwithiel, divert from the lane through a gate on the left. Follow the gravel path down to rejoin the river. Pass under the A390 road bridge before coming to Lostwithiel’s ancient stone bridge.
Fun under the bridge
Summer fun Lostwithiel Bridge, Fi Darby
On a low water day, you can walk right underneath Lostwithiel bridge but the most sensible people (the younger ones) will probably be playing in the water here.
Plenty of opportunity for swooshing.
Once you’ve explored Lostwithiel (it’s definitely worth taking the time to do so), cross the old bridge to find Lostwithiel station.
It’s time to bid the River Fowey farewell.
Author’s walk and swim
A Cornish river swim and walk by train
On a hot day in August I knew I wanted to be away from Devon and Cornwall’s crowded coastal beaches so I opted for a train ride into the Cornish countryside.
There are two things I love on a hot day, water and trees, and this walk had plenty of both. Most of the day I was walking in the shade and had the sound of the river to accompany me.
And yes, I did have a lovely river swim.
I found a river beach by a bend in the river that, on the inside of the bend, offered a pool just deep enough for me to float in and on the outside a bit of flow to allow me to stretch my swimming muscles.
I had several dips.
And it was so warm I ate lunch in my swimsuit watching the dogs play in the river.
Much nicer than being in the holiday crowds.
I was initially sorry to leave the riverside for the lane section of the walk but found the lane just as interesting and saw even less people than I had down by the river.
Which is perhaps why it was a bit of a shock to cross under the bridge at Lostwithiel and find the river beach packed with parents and the river itself packed with children. It was lovely to see them enjoying themselves in the water but I felt a bit too self conscious to join in.
Good wholesome fun.
I sat and watched the kids swooshing under the bridge before I went to catch my train home.
Plenty more to explore.
I’m looking forward to exploring this area of Cornwall further by train. Perhaps a walk on up to Lanhydrock or further down river towards Fowey itself. And I would like to go to Restormel Castle and see what the views are like from there.
After all of my train adventures in the UK, I finally decided to give travel to Europe by train a go. What could be more exciting than getting on board a train in one country and getting off it in another? Different cultures, different foods, different train systems.
And all those different languages.
Train holidays in Europe are gaining in popularity for lots of reasons. Many people are quite rightly keen to reduce their carbon footprint and feel that flight free is the best way to travel. Others are fed up with that same-everywhere airport feeling and want to properly experience locations as they travel through them.
You can miss out whole continents by flying.
My train adventures in Europe
Although I’ve travelled overseas a fair amount, I’m a relative newby to European travel. I haven’t been backpacking or Interrailing yet but this year (2024) I’ve been lucky enough to make two significant European train trips.
So far!
1. London to Paris by train and ferry
Calais train station, Fi Darby
This flight free London to Paris journey was a commission for one of my clients. My brief was to travel to Paris without using Eurostar, check out all the train and ferry connections and write up some useful instructions for people wanting to travel to the Paris Olympics by train.
Mr D and I travelled from London to Dover by train, with P&O ferries to Calais and then by train to Paris. We had a wonderful trip and it really whet my appetite for further European train travel.
We first planned to visit Sweden in our campervan just before lockdown. I remember eating meatballs in the van on the day we were due to set off; we were parked just outside our house. I even made tiny Swedish flags for the occasion.
Move on a few years and we were (finally) planning a trip to Stockholm with a friend. I took the bold decision to fly out with them (easy) and come back on my own by train (slightly scary).
Why did I chose to travel by train?
Well I feel quite strongly that if we all make small changes to our travel habits, we can make a difference to climate change and influence a new way of looking at travel. I thought that by comparing the two experiences, I would be able to not only find out for myself how train travel and flying compare but share my findings with everyone else.
It took me one flight to get to Stockholm.
It took me eleven trains to get home again.
It was also a lot more expensive to make the Sweden UK journey by train but I had an amazing experience. I met all kinds of people, gained confidence and actually felt like I had travelled.
Most importantly I saved a huge amount of CO2.
You can read more details about my trip home from Sweden to the UK by train here; including my route, how I booked the tickets, how much it all cost, how long the train trip home took, and exactly how much CO2 I saved by coming back by train.
And you can find out whether or not I would choose to travel that way again.
Overland travel isn’t just gaining popularity for its eco credentials. Each year more travellers are discovering the joy of slow travel through Europe to and from their chosen European holiday destination.
We are all realising that how we travel matters.
Train journeys to Europe from the UK are usually more expensive (in monetary terms) than their equivalent flights but many people also give the convenience and shorter journey times of flying as their reasons not to switch to the train.
I thought it was time I investigated for myself. Read on to find out how I compared a flight out to Stockholm with my journey home from Sweden to the UK by train.
If you’re considering giving European train travel a try, this article will hopefully answer all your questions.
Local trains Stockholm, Fi Darby
It will also help you compare the costs, time, experiences and carbon footprint of taking the train to Europe instead of flying.
Why will it do that?
Because I’ve just come back from an experimental trip to Sweden. I flew out with my family and came back solo by train.
Seems a bit strange to use flights and trains?
Bagarmossen Metro station Stockholm, Fi Darby
Yep! It felt a bit strange too. The door of our holiday home shut behind us, I watched the rest of my party get into their Uber to head to Stockholm’s Arlanda airport. Then alone, I turned around and walked to the Stockholm Metro to head for the train station.
My train journey turned out to be quite an adventure.
Before I tell you about my travel experience, let’s take a look at the numbers. When I talk to people about alternatives to flying or driving, two reasons for not choosing the train always come up; money and time.
Nobody really talks about the journey experience.
Which is why I decided to fly out to Sweden and take the train back.
I wanted to find out for myself what the trip would be like.
This infographic shows the cost, time, carbon footprint and experience comparisons of my plane and train trip to Sweden but you can read more about the detail below that.
Copyright, Fi Darby 2024
1. Flight costs vs train costs
Flight out to Sweden – £123
Train trip back from Sweden – £335
Trains at Cologne Station, Fi Darby
How much did it cost to fly to Sweden from the UK?
In this section I’m talking about costs to bank accounts, I’ll get to costs to the planet later.
Is flying really so much cheaper than taking the train? It would be great to think it wasn’t but (wrong or right) flights are often the cheapest way to travel overseas, or even sometimes domestically.
But what if you consider the whole journey?
My trip to Sweden involved picking up a friend (and her electric car) in Cheltenham, and flying (cheaper flights) from Manchester airport.
Car (diesel) from Devon to Cheltenham – 134 miles – £23
Car (electric) to Manchester airport – 123 miles – £0 (solar electric)
Flight to Arlanda airport (Stockholm) – £87 (under seat luggage)
The total cost of my flight, airport transfers and connections from home in Devon to Stockholm in Sweden was.
£123
Sweden to the UK by train, how much did it cost?
Because it’s always such an experience, you can’t measure a train journey by monetary costs alone but we are talking about finances here so let’s give it a go.
I had a few options when I booked my train trip but chose not to use the Stockholm to Hamburg sleeper train so that I could look at the scenery I was passing through (one of the benefits of flight-free travel). That choice meant I needed to include an overnight stay.
I costed up lots of different ticket options and for the trip I wanted, buying an Interrail 4-day Global Travel Pass worked out cheapest. Because I wasn’t travelling by train both ways, I didn’t use two of the days but I still have the option to do so (if I can do it within a month).
As well as buying the pass, I had to pay to reserve seats on all but two of my trains but apart from Eurostar, this was a minimal cost.
And yes, if you’re a UK resident, you can still use Interrail after Brexit.
Interrail Global Pass (4 days within one month) – £243
Seat reservation (Stockholm to Copenhagen) – £6
Seat reservation (Copenhagen to Hamburg) – £7
Seat reservation (Cologne to Brussels) – £7
Seat reservation Eurostar (Brussels to London) – £27
CAB20 hotel (Hamburg) – £46
Once again, I haven’t included my local transport connection cost from our holiday home in Sweden to Stockholm Central station.
It’s also worth noting I didn’t pay for a reservation on three of my trains (it’s optional on some). I didn’t have problems finding a seat but with hindsight, I would reserve one on future high season trips.
£335
Cost comparison – flying from Sweden to the UK or going by train.
As expected (and unfortunately), travelling to and from Scandinavia by train is more expensive than flying. 172% more expensive if you want to put a number on it.
My choice to take the train back from Sweden to the UK cost me an additional £212.
Note. I would have spent less on my airfare with a return ticket but on a return train trip, would have used all of the four travel days on my Global Interrail Pass, and only paid for reservations.
To save my brain, I chose not to include these calculations!
2. Flight times vs train times
Sweden to the UK flight + transfers time – 11 hours
Sweden to the UK train time – 22.5 + 12 overnight hours
Hamburg train station platforms, Fi Darby
How long did it take to fly from Sweden to the UK?
After money, the next reason people usually give for not taking the train on holiday (or elsewhere) is time. Another reason I flew out and took the train home was to allow me to compare the two trips in terms of time.
When we look at flight times, we often forget to include travel to the airport, check-in times and local connections. This was my husband’s trip not mine, but I have tried to include everything.
Uber to Arlanda airport – 1 hour
Check-in time Arlanda airport Stockholm – 1.5 hours
Flight Arlanda to Manchester airport – 2.5 hours
Car Manchester airport to Cheltenham – 3 hours
Car Cheltenham to Devon – 3 hours
11 hours
How long does the train from Sweden to the UK take?
Including the Metro in Stockholm, the Tube in London and one unexpected train change (broken train) it took me eleven trains to get home to Devon from Stockholm in Sweden.
I’ve listed the train times as accurately as possible below (I did have a few delays and alterations to deal with) and I left plenty of time in between trains (which I needed on a couple of occasions).
Walk and Metro to Stockholm Central – 0.5 hours
Stockholm Central to Copenhagen – 6 hours
Copenhagen to Hamburg – 5 hours
Hamburg to Hanover – 1.5 hours
Hanover to Cologne – 2.5 hours
Cologne to Brussels – 2 hours
Brussels to London – 1 hour + 1 hour Eurostar check-in time
London to Devon – 3 hours
22.5 + 12 hours (travel plus overnight in Hamburg)
Time comparison – flying from Sweden to the UK and going by train.
No surprises here either. Even with airport connections, taking the train home to the UK from Sweden takes longer than flying. 214% longer.
My choice to travel back from Sweden by train instead of plane meant I took an additional23.5 hours.
Note: The sleeper train from Stockholm to Hamburg wouldn’t have made this journey quicker and I would have missed out on my last night in Sweden.
3. Flight carbon footprint vs train carbon footprint
Flight carbon footprint – 0.99 MT (metric tons)
Train carbon footprint – 0.013 MT (metric tons)
On the train between Hanover and Cologne, Fi Darby
And here we come to the real reason for my trip. Finding ways to reduce my emissions as I travel. You could argue this ecological consideration should be the most important one in all of our travel and holiday planning.
How did the carbon footprint of taking the train home to the UK from Sweden compare with the carbon footprint of flying?
Here are the details…
Note: There are lots of carbon footprint calculators out there but it was tricky to find one that would calculate trains, planes and cars. In the end I used the one from Sustainable Travel International to make the calculations for the flight and this carbon footprint calculator for the train trip but got similar results with others.
What was the carbon footprint of flying from Sweden to the UK?
I’ve included airport transfers and local travel in this calculation. I’ve also put the section of the journey in an electric car as zero because the vehicle was charged by home solar power.
MT = Metric tons of CO2 (according to the WWF, the UK average personal annual carbon footprint for 2024 is 8.8 MT. We should be aiming for 2.5 each by 2030).
Electric car Manchester airport to Cheltenham – 0 MT
Petrol car Cheltenham to Devon – 0.4 MT
The total carbon footprint of flying home from Sweden…
0.99 MT
What was the carbon footprint of taking the train from Sweden to the UK?
Because I travelled on so many trains on my journey, I divided them into electric miles (Europe) and diesel/electric combined miles (UK) rather than each individual journey.
Electric trains – Sweden to London – 0.004 MT
Diesel/electric trains – London to Newton Abbot – 0.009 MT
The total carbon footprint of my train journey home from Sweden…
0.013 MT
Carbon footprint comparison – taking the train from Sweden to the UK or flying.
After a longer time and greater costs for my train trip, I was very pleased to see these carbon footprint comparison results. Taking the train instead of a flight reduced the carbon footprint of my trip by 99%.
My flight free choice saved 0.98 MT of carbon emissions (my current personal annual emissions are 8.8 MT so that’s a big saving.)
4. Which was better? Flying to Sweden or coming home by train?
Stockholm Central station, Fi Darby
I had three reasons for taking the train instead of a flight on my Sweden-UK journey.
I loved train adventures.
I wanted to reduce my carbon footprint.
I wanted to see the countries I travelled through.
Despite having a ‘Final Destination’ type situation hanging over my head (I won’t go into details), I mostly enjoy the experience of flying. Indeed, with family in New Zealand, you could say I’m a seasoned air passenger.
But ever since I first flew alone across the world at the tender age of 18, I’ve wondered what it would be like to travel overland (and sea) to New Zealand and see the places over which I had been flying.
It’s still ambition of mine.
In those days we didn’t know so much about the damage planes do to the planet but now we do, I have been seriously considering going completely flight free.
Or at least swapping the majority of my air travel for trains.
My train trip home from Sweden wasn’t without minor hitches. Although these made me a bit jittery at the time, I definitely think they added to the sense of adventure.
I’ve thought about my train journey a lot since I’ve been home. I’ve hardly considered my flight.
If that doesn’t tell you enough about my experience, perhaps the list below will.
I chatted to people from many different countries
I went to a restaurant on my own in another country
I stayed in my first pod hotel
I dealt with timetabling changes
I learned about several different transport systems
I found out I could still run for a train
I started to use different languages again
I felt immensely proud of myself at the end of the trip
So was Sweden to the UK better by train than by plane?
For my finances – NO
If I had been in a hurry – NO
For the experience – 100% YES
For the planet – 100% YES
5. FAQ Sweden to the UK by train
Travelling by train through Denmark, Fi Darby
I’ve tried to answer a few of the questions you might have about my first long European train journey below but do feel free to message me on Instagram if you have any others.
Did everybody really speak English?
One of the things I really loved about my journey was travelling alongside people from so many different countries.
It made me feel part of the crowd rather than outside it.
My minimum French and German came into play and I found myself able to listen in to a few conversations, understand parts of announcements and interpret most information screens. But much of the time I didn’t need to.
Because often the information appeared or was read aloud in English.
My tickets weren’t checked on every train but each time they were, the ticket officer spoke to me in English. More importantly, when there were delays or issues with the trains, I was always able to find a fellow passenger who spoke both English and the local language.
We were all in the same boat (or on the same train!)
Note the Swedish spelling of Copenhagen. Fi Darby
When you’re relying on display screens as you travel, it’s useful to note the European names of the places you’re visiting or travelling through as these sometimes (not always) have different spellings to our English versions.
Copenhagen for example is København in Danish and Köpenhamn in Swedish. Cologne is Köln in German, Danish and Swedish but where an umlaut (accent) can’t be used it’s Koeln.
Google translate helped me with this.
Did you feel safe travelling solo by train through Europe?
Brussels Midi station, Fi Darby
On the trains and at the stations definitely yes.
Although most of the stations were without ticket barriers and open to the public, there was a good security and police presence.
I didn’t see any anti-social behaviour or anything that made me feel unsafe.
The only time I felt unsure of myself was in Hamburg. I had chosen a restaurant for dinner (Yume Ramen – definitely recommend) and found that without incident but Google Maps took me through what I later confirmed was a slightly dodgy area to my hotel.
Again there was a police presence and I arrived without incident.
Was it complicated booking the European train tickets?
Eurostar London, Fi Darby
Booking the tickets wasn’t complicated because I did it all through the Interrail app. What did take quite a lot of time was the research I did beforehand. I put four different journey options onto a spreadsheet with timings and costs and chose the one that best suited me.
My advice on a journey like this would be to start with the main journey, in my case this was the Eurostar from Brussels to London.
If you aren’t using Interrail (the most simple method) for your passes and reservations across Europe, the following websites are really helpful for booking European train tickets.
All of these are available in English.
Deutsche Bahn – trips in Germany and some connecting journeys including Copenhagen and Brussels
Which travel apps helped you take the train across Europe?
Waiting at Brussels Midi station, Fi Darby
All the organisations above have travel apps. I downloaded these before I travelled and used them on my train journey home from Sweden.
For travel within the UK I always use GWR’s app. They’re my local (and favourite) trainline and helped me out with tickets for this trip.
They helped me deal with delays and one timetable alteration.
It’s worth noting the Interrail app only updates its timetables monthly. You can book reservations but you also need to check trains on the relevant local timetables (via the apps/websites above).
I did have one significant (but manageable) timetable change so it’s worth checking.
I really don’t like following sat nav apps but I couldn’t carry paper maps for so many cities so I also used Google Maps and City Mapper (recommended) to find my way around outside the train stations.
Were there any problems with your journey?
Luckily they held my Copenhagen Hamburg train, Fi Darby
It’s a rare journey that goes completely smoothly so yes, there were a couple of issues. It’s worth remembering though that airport delays leave you stuck in chairs while train station delays give you opportunity to explore.
Mr D also had traffic and weather issues on the M6 after his flight home.
‘Terminating at Malmo’. A couple of days before my trip, I had a text message from SJ Swedish Rail to say my train from Stockholm to Copenhagen was only going as far as Malmo. It referred me to the Oresund train for the rest of that leg so I was prepared (and a bit worried about timings) to change at Malmo. In the end, a train announcement (thankfully in English) suggested we changed at Lund instead where my next train was coming in on the same platform.
‘This train has a problem’. Just after crossing the Øresund/Öresund bridge (fantastic) our train developed a fault and we had to get off at Copenhagen Airport station to wait for a new one. This was the only time I didn’t really know what was going on because there were no announcements in English but I soon found fellow English-speaking passengers who did.
‘Technical fault’. This was the Eurostar, which ran almost an hour late from Brussels and was a bit short on information delivery. I had to run to catch the Tube and my connection at Paddington.
You might think that these issues would be enough to put me off travelling across Europe by train again but although they did make me sweat a bit, they were the moments I remember the most and that made me feel the most capable.
And I discovered I can still run up steps.
I was pleased I had built in an overnight in Hamburg because it gave me leeway for delays on day one. In hindsight, I might build in longer connection times but where they did work, it was nice not to have to hang around for ages at stations.
When travel hitches occur I think a philosophical approach works best. An unexpected night somewhere or arriving back a bit late really wasn’t going to be too much of an issue for me.
In the end everything worked fine but the possibility of having to make new plans turned the trip into an adventure.
Was taking the train from Scandinavia a better experience than flying?
Cyclist outside Brussels station, Fi Darby
Absolutely 100% YES!
Okay, so when I had to run for my Hamburg and Devon trains things felt a bit squeaky but I’ve now put that down as type two fun.
Not really fun at the time but brilliant as a memory.
I feel like I’ve actually travelled
I know how different countries look, sound and smell
I’ve had to use and understand other languages
I’ve learned about different travel systems
I’ve found I can manage my personal safety
I’ve gained confidence in my abilities
But for me, by far the most enjoyable aspect of my journey was the people I met along the way. I don’t know any of their names but they really made my journey so thanks to.
Mowgli the dog and his mum who gave me Swedish hiking tips (dogs on UK trains)
The young lady on the Hamburg train who told me all about Sweden in the winter
The Scouts on the Cologne train who made me smile with their enthusiasm and neat rucksacks
The French backpackers who taught me two great cheats for Rock, Paper, Scissors (boogie anyone?)
My fellow nearly-missed-the-Hamburg-train lady who celebrated with me when we reached the platform in time
The couple from Norway who very politely laughed at my ‘always light at the end of the tunnel’ joke as we were waiting nervously for our late Eurostar to pull in
The waiter in Hamburg who gave me free ice-cream after my meal
Everyone who filled up my water bottle for me
The staff team on my GWR train who had to work very late because there was a trespasser on the line but made sure everyone got back to Cornwall okay
You were all wonderful.
Starcross station on the Riviera Line in Devon, Fi Darby
Afon Hafren, the River Severn is the longest river in the UK. From its source in the wild Cambrian mountains of Wales to its estuary in the bustling city of Bristol, it flows through an amazing variety of landscapes. The River Severn is 220 miles (354 kilometres) long.
And has its own long-distance hiking trail.
Severn Way long distance walk, Fi Darby
The Severn Way is a long distance walking route that follows the River Severn. From childhood experiences, I know some of this great river’s banks well, and one day I would like to undertake the hiking route as one of my adventures by train but for now I’m exploring sections.
So far I’ve explored the areas around the final and first sections of the Severn Way walk.
Yes this walk is possible by train (with the help of local taxis and accommodation).
The walking route to the source of the River Severn is a personal favourites. It’s one of several way-marked Hafren Forest hiking trails (including the accessible Cascades Walk) from the main forest car park (Rhyd-y-benwch).
But with a bit of help, you can complete this walk car-free.
Although it is in a remote location, it is possible to visit the source of the River Severn by train. Here’s my recommended method.
Train to Caersws.
Local taxi to Hafren Forest Hideaway.
Stay overnight and enjoy a fantastic breakfast.
Chat to Darren and Sarah about route options.
Enjoy your walk (and take lots of waterfall photos).
Enjoy another relaxing night at the Hideaway.
Local taxi back to Caersws train station.
Train home.
If that sounds like quite the trip, please let me reassure you, you’ll want to stay longer; the area around Hafren Forest is stunning and super-peaceful.
If you are lucky enough to stay longer around Hafren, here are a few suggestions of what to do.
This walk describes the main Source of the Severn trail from Rhyd-y-benwch car park. On a longer walk, you can also access the trail directly from Hafren Forest Hideaway.
Train station: Caersws (a Transport for Wales station)
Toilets: Caersws (not the station) and at the start of the trail
Refreshments: Book an evening meal at Hafren Forest Hideaway (recommended). Caersws has a cafe and a shop.
Source of the Severn walking route instructions
Waterfall Source of the Severn route, Fi Darby
This is a there-and-back walk but the views are so different on the return journey, you won’t feel as though you’re covering the same ground.
Author’s adventure tip: Pack a swimsuit just in case you’re tempted to river swim on the way back down the hill. On damper summer days, this area is popular with midges so don’t forget the insect repellent (my favourite is Smidge).
Practicalities: Although this hiking route follows a clearly marked trail, it does include steep and open moorland sections. I recommend walking boots and a waterproof jacket as it can get windy at the top. If you want to venture beyond the Source of the Severn, you’ll need a map and compass.
Walk instructions
Walking guide Darren from Hafren Forest Hideaway, Fi Darby
Leaving the car park, follow the wide winding path down into the forest until you come to the ford.
Get your camera out!
Follow the boardwalk of the accessible trail until you come to the first viewpoint. There are benches here so take your time and enjoy the view.
This is a great River Severn selfie spot!
Continue up the steep path keeping the river on your left. This section is marked ‘flume’ on the map and you’ll hear the river tumbling through the rocks below you.
I like to record the sound.
Follow the path as it flattens out. Just above the weir (possibilities for river swimming), you’ll pass a wooden shelter.
Picnic shelter on the Severn Source walk, Fi Darby
On a wet day, this makes the perfect picnic spot.
At the fork, take the right path to cross two footbridges and walk past a couple of beautiful still pools. Continue up to meet the track and view Rhaeadr Blaenhafren waterfall.
Take a break because the path steepens here.
Continue up the hill, zig-zagging steeply at times. As you emerge above the tree line, turn around to admire the view back down the valley.
And catch your breath!
The final section of this Source of the Severn hike is across open moorland but it does follow a path. By staying on the path, you’ll protect the local environment as well as making sure you don’t end up knee deep in peat.
Moorland section, Source of the Severn route, Fi Darby
I’ve seen this happen more than once.
The Source of the River Severn is a beautiful pool. Some people are disappointed by its lack of stature but I find it a supremely peaceful and relaxing place to be.
The Source of the River Severn, Fi Darby
Enjoy the moment. This river source is far more accessible and obvious than many in the UK.
The weekend included accommodation, full board, a guided walk, a paddleboard session and an evening campfire. I visited on my own and had a lovely time, chatting to new people and enjoying new experiences together.
I came home with a sense of achievement but also feeling relaxed and revived.
Darren from the Hideaway was our walking guide on the Source of the Severn route. He’s a qualified Mountain Leader and knows the Hafren area really well. He shared some really interesting pieces of information and did a great job of making sure everyone (even slower walkers like me) had a great experience.
Although I am a confident navigator and enjoy solo walking, I particularly appreciated walking with a guide. It gave me the opportunity to ask questions and learn more about the River Severn and surrounding area.
I also enjoyed the laughter and fun that came from walking with a group of ladies.